Three favourite lakes in North Wales

by | Nov 5, 2024

Emma Marshall, author of ‘Wild Swimming Walks Eryri/Snowdonia’ has shared with us her three favourite lakes from her new guidebook book.

Wild Swimming Walks Eryri/Snowdonia’ leads you on 28 walk-swimming adventures in the soaring landscapes of Eryri National Park. As well as many stunning waterfalls and dreamy rivers, the book features 33 lakes. Here are Emma’s favourite three:

Llyn Caseg Fraith  

Providing a fair amount of elevation through the gnarly Glyderau, this five-mile, challenging route visits the ultimate mountain pool of the mysterious and peaty Llyn Caseg Fraith (Lake of the Speckled Mare), and later Llyn Bochlwyd and Llyn Ogwen.

The path leads you up through the captivating quiet of Cwm Tryfan, where, at the top, the lake is visible, twinkling below. No more than a peaty pool, it is eerie and exciting; an infinity pool with the most fantastic aspect. It’s grandstand views of Tryfan, Glyder Fach, the Carneddau range, Yr Wyddfa and Moel Siabod are unforgettable.

Swimming in this heavenly mountain-top pool at sunrise in the pink glow of Tryfan is perhaps the ultimate Eryri mountain-lake-swimming experience.

Llyn Gamallt Fawr

This remote six mile circular walk gifts us with a beautiful swim in Llynnau Gamallt; the jewel-like twin lakes that shimmer beneath the escarpment of Y Gamallt in the Arenig mountain range. This part of Eryri has a wild, tussocky beauty punctuated by fascinating, wild-west-type rock formations. The land here is boulder-strewn and unlike any other part of Eryri I know, with its peculiar rocky knolls and interconnecting secluded valleys. At times it feels more Arizona than Eryri! The further of the two lakes is Llyn Gamallt Fawr and a large sloping rock lies in front of a rock island bedecked with fern and lichen. Slipping into the lake’s magical waters from this sloping rock is such a treat and it is very unlikely that you will ever have any company here at this very remote lake. The rock island is the perfect base for a post-swim sunbathe and you’ll find it very difficult to tear yourself away.

Llyn Cau

The mighty ridges of Cadair Idris enclose a dreamy swim in the crystal-clear, mirror-like Llyn Cau. Plus, on this ten-mile, strenuous walk, there is another secret swim spot in the divine Llyn Mwyngil near the end. Cadair Idris has three routes to her summit; the Pony Path, from the Dolgellau side of the mountain; the Fox’s Path, also from the north, but not now recommended due to erosion on the steep scree path; and the Minffordd Path from the south, which is the shortest, yet steepest of the three routes up. The latter is arguably the most beautiful and, what’s more, it passes the loveliest of swimming spots, Llyn Cau. Llyn Cau keeps its dizzying beauty hidden for quite some time. When revealed, its glass-like surface, reflecting the mountain that cups it, is totally awe-inspiring. It has the clearest and most stunning jade waters. You will feel like you are one of the Tylwyth Teg (‘Fairy People’) bathing in this very special lake. It is reputed to be bottomless and the haunt of fabulous mythical beasts.
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